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What should you DCA? Is Bitcoin alone enough?
We've talked a lot about "how to DCA," but "what to DCA" is actually harder and more important. Scattering money across a basket feels safe, yet after going round the houses I ended up investing in fewer, not more. Here's why.
One counterintuitive fact up front: in crypto, "buying a few more coins to diversify risk" often doesn't hold. Majors and small coins rise and fall in tight lockstep — you think you've diversified by buying a basket, when in fact you've just bought the same risk many times over. This is the opposite of the traditional-investing wisdom that "diversification is a free lunch." Once you grasp this, the answer to "what to DCA" leans toward fewer, not more.
And the reason it deserves more thought than "how to DCA" is straightforward: the DCA "action" is mechanical, but if the DCA "object" has no long-term value, then the most perfect discipline and the cleverest frequency are merely losing money precisely, on a rhythm. Below I'll take a few questions I've asked myself over and over and unpack "what to invest in," step by step.
Q: Is Bitcoin alone enough?
A: For many people, yes — and it may be the most fitting starting point.
Bitcoin has the longest history, the broadest consensus and the simplest mechanism in this market. Its story is easy to grasp: a hard supply cap, no reliance on any single company or team to keep operating, discussed and held worldwide as a kind of "digital scarce asset." You don't need to understand complex technology to roughly explain "what it is and why it has value." That matters enormously, because whether you can hold something through a bear market depends almost entirely on whether you genuinely understand it.
Of course, Bitcoin's volatility is still huge, with multiple deep 70–80% drawdowns in its history (roughly 84% in the 2018 cycle, roughly 77% in 2022). "Bitcoin only" doesn't mean "safe"; it just keeps your cognitive load to a minimum — you only have to understand one thing. For an ordinary person who's just starting and doesn't want to drown in jargon, I think that's an honest and pragmatic choice.
Q: What about adding Ethereum?
A: Sure, provided you genuinely understand why you're adding it — and not just because "it's number two."
Ethereum's logic differs from Bitcoin's. Bitcoin is more like "digital gold" — its pitch is scarcity and store of value; Ethereum is more like a "programmable network," with many applications and protocols running on it, so its value is tied more to "how much the network gets used." These are two different stories, not two versions of the same one.
So the real question behind "should I add Ethereum" is: do you understand, and buy into, its "programmable network" story? If you do understand and agree, then allocating part of your position to it is reasonable. But if you just feel "number two can't be that bad," then you're really buying something you can't articulate — psychologically the same as buying a hot small coin, just with a more respectable object.
For every asset I consider adding, I ask the same question: on the night it's down 70% and everyone says it's finished, will I still have the conviction to hold it — or even keep buying? If the answer is no, it doesn't belong on my DCA list, no matter where it ranks today or how hard it's pumping.
Q: Isn't a basket more diversified?
A: This is the biggest detour I took. It sounds right, but in crypto it often backfires.
In traditional investing, "diversification" is gospel — buy a basket of stocks and when one's down another's up, smoothing out the overall swings. But crypto assets have a peculiarity: their correlation with each other is extremely high. When the market's good they rise together; when it crashes they fall almost as one — and the smaller, more fringe the coin, the harder it falls and the lower its odds of coming back. So buying a basket of a dozen coins often doesn't truly diversify your risk; it just buys the same risk a dozen times, while spreading your attention and understanding so thin you can't keep track.
The more practical problem: if even a few in that basket are ones you don't really understand and just threw in to round out the numbers, those few become your soft spot — when they crash you won't know whether to hold or run, because you never understood them from the start. The premise of diversification should be "I understand every one," not "buy enough and some will be right."
Q: Those hot small coins that pump the hardest — really not touch a single one?
A: Within the "DCA" framework, I don't touch them. I say that with full conviction.
DCA is a method built for the long term, for "I believe in its value years from now." The logic of most hot small coins is the reverse: they ride short-term narratives, sentiment and money rotation, and many never came back once the hype faded. Putting that kind of thing into DCA — i.e., buying it monthly for years no matter how expensive — is, in essence, using a "long-term stockpiling" tool to hold a "short-term gambling" object. A total mismatch between tool and object.
The biggest trap in chasing hot small coins is that it most easily triggers the "size up to chase a rally" mistake from the 5 common DCA mistakes. Watching someone double their money overnight on it, it's very hard to keep your hands off and not pile in. But the entire discipline of DCA rests on "I don't chase hot themes; I mechanically buy only what I've decided on." Put these two together and they'll eventually shred your DCA discipline.
"Using DCA to bet on a small coin that might moonshot" is a very common self-deception — it dresses speculation in the clothing of discipline. If you want to take a small sum you can fully afford to lose and gamble on a hot theme, that's a separate matter (and be clear that it's speculation, not DCA) — just never mix it with the long-term position you're seriously stockpiling.
Q: So how exactly should I choose?
A: One rule — only invest in what you genuinely understand, then keep the number as small as possible.
"Less is more" isn't a pretty slogan here; it has very concrete benefits:
- Concentrated understanding. The fewer the assets, the more truly you can understand each one — and the better you'll hold them through a bear market.
- Simple decisions. No agonizing over how to split this month across a dozen coins; DCA exists precisely to make you decide less.
- Not led around by noise. A short list means you won't fret daily over whether some small coin pumped today.
How many exactly, in what proportions — there's no standard answer; it depends on what you understand and what you believe in. But the direction is clear: rather than scattering a handful of things you can't explain, concentrate on one or two assets you truly understand and truly trust, then pour all your energy into "sticking with it for the long term" — that's what DCA can actually give you. To see different assets' historical DCA performance for yourself, pull the curves and compare in the backtest tool; to tie the whole method together with risk control, I recommend the complete Bitcoin DCA guide and risk management for DCA.
So in concrete terms, screen every candidate with a single question: during the stretch when it's down 70% and everyone's writing it off, would you still be willing to keep buying it on plan? Keep the ones that pass; put the ones you can't answer back on a watchlist, not on your DCA list. After screening, the list will probably be very short — which is usually right, not a problem.
Once you've chosen the asset, the next step is an account to buy it
After you've settled what to DCA, you need an account that can buy these major assets and set up an automatic plan.
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